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Timestamp Free: 2020.02.21 - 10:43:44
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Garibaldi Ranges
(8 days) Elevation Gain: 2183m
Participants: Jesse Jackson, Colin Punchard, Jason Addy
Difficulty: 5: Up to 5.8 D. 270km of biking.
A party of three biked from Vancouver to the Chehalis Range. First Grainger was climbed and then from Nursery Pass the Viennese, Recourse, Clarke traverse was completed.
I stood at the base of Clarke's east ridge pulling and coiling the blue end of our rope just after Jesse had called "off rappel." We had just completed the Viennese-Clarke traverse and were an hour behind our turn around time. The yellow end of the rope was just leaving the col when Jesse asked, "Where's the rack?" We looked at each other. He'd left the entire rack two 50m rappels above us. I did a quick assessment. I could have still just reached the rope. I knew I could protect myself and quickly get up to the top of our last rappel. From there I figured I could climb to the second rappel without a rope. I told Jesse that this was my intention. He realized it would probably mean a night out for both of us without food or sleeping gear. We estimated the cost of the rack and then Jesse offered to buy our way out of the situation. It didn't take me long to agree, and so we coiled up the rope and headed back for Colin who was waiting for us at Nursery Pass.
This was our annual, low concept, self-propelled trip. We had eight days to bike to the Chehalis climb what ever we could and then bike back. Since our 2005 trip had taken us to and from the Tantalus range with very little success, we had low expectations. But just like last year we planned to climb lots of peaks and left plenty of room for downgrading as necessary. When we set out in September 2005 we had planned to climb Tantalus and Dionne by way of Alpha and Serratus. We were very far off the mark. On day four we bailed off of the East Ridge of Serratus and abandoned our last three objectives. Still, we had felt good about climbing just Alpha by bike from town and so this year we were ready to settle for just climbing our first objective: Grainger.
As usual, one week before the trip started, our lucky charm...
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