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Mount Shand - The Madness of 'King' George Couloir
Timestamp Free: 2019.08.24 - 15:39:22
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges
Participants: Ade Miller Simeon Warner 400m, D 50° WI3
1st ascent of a new line on the east face.
The couloir immediately left of the Shand-McCormick Col, see top photo on p435 of Don Serl's guide. The upper half of the couloir had a lot less snow than in the picture, much of the ice climbing being on ribbons no more than a meter wide. Cross the schrund and climb 150m of 40° neve before the couloir narrows and steepens. Three pitches of 50° ice and a half pitch of WI3 leads to the summit ridge. The ridge is 4th class with some awkward down climbing to cross the final notch to the summit. 6 hours to summit from Unicorn Col.
We descended the SW Face route (PD).
See also: The Waddington Guide: Alpine Climbs in one of the World's Great Ranges, Don Serl, Elaho...
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