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Serra Three - Buszowski-Kippan Integrale
Timestamp Free: 2020.07.07 - 03:17:41
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges
  (3 days)
Participants: Ade Miller Simeon Warner 1250m, ED1 60
2nd ascent, first complete ascent to summit
The route pretty much still follows the line as shown in Don Serl's guide and is relatively free from objective hazard. Cross the schrund by heading left under the overhanging serac on the far side but move back below the rocks after a pitch or so. 17p lead to a camp on the very left hand tip of the hanging glacier at half height. 13p to the Tellot Dome-Serra Three Col. A remaining 5p lead to the summit of Serra Three. Skipping the rock finger true summit we rappelled directly to the col. 3 days round trip. The original ascentionists were forced to descend from just above the col due to bad weather.

Linking with The Hose on the right hand side of Serra Three's north face is possible, and was our original intent. Climbing the hanging glacier is not feasible, it is massively crevassed with huge ice cliffs and a schrund below The Hose. Climbers would have to traverse six or more pitches to reach the base of The Host from the bottom of the final couloir below the Tellot Dome-Serra Three Col.

We descended over the Tellot Spires-Eaglehead Col and then down to the Shand-McCormick Col. Descending this late season is a lot more involved than the guide implies. The upper headwall is 60+ on the McCormick side and the schrund was nearly 10m high with a 1-2m overhang on it. The Shand side looked less icy but still sports a large...

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