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Tantalus High Traverse: Sigurd Creek to Lake Lovely Water
Timestamp Free: 2020.11.29 - 18:44:54
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges
  (5 days)
Participants: Doug Brown (Vancouver), Jacquie Trudeau
Difficulty: 5: Very exposed, lots of 3rd and 4th class rock with occasional 5th class. Glacier travel with tricky transitions from snow to rock, some steep snow.
High traverse of the Tantalus Range-Sigurd Creek, Pelion, Tantalus, Dione, Serratus, Alpha, Lake Lovely Water, Squamish River.
This report describes a high traverse of the Tantalus Range starting with a hike up Sigurd creek, ascents of Pelion, Tantalus, Dione, Serratus, and Alpha, followed by a descent to the Squamish River, cable crossing and mountain bike back to the truck. Four long days to lake lovely water and one easy day out, it was a wonderful mountaineering adventure.

Day 1: Sigurd Creek and Pelion. We stashed a mountain bike at the spur road leading to the cable car crossing of the Squamish river. See Lake Lovelywater Trail. We then drove to the Sigurd creek trail head. We hiked up the Sigurd creek trail, traversed around east side of prominent 2200m tower at the end of the NE ridge, passed through the col at ~grid:745,240, traversed and climbed the north side glacier and an easy rock scramble to the summit. Descended south ridge until SW glacier could be reached. Descended and traversed on west side of the mountain until possible to easily rejoin the Squamish-Clowhom divide at approximately 2000m elevation. After a couple of foiled attempts, descended from the bump at ~755,225 by contouring on the south side approximately 50-100m below the summit then dropped steeply. Great bivy with water about 20 minutes before the Zenith col ~761,219. 13.5hrs from the truck.

Day 2: Tantalus. Hiked to the Zenith col, got stuck on the ridge at ~765,213, doubled back and traversed on the east side of the ridge and onto the Rumbling glacier. Ascended snow, then easy rock, then steep snow, then a bit more rock to the notch in the ridge at ~761,201 (potential large and very large moats during all transitions from rock to snow provided multiple cruxes throughout the trip). Great scrambling along the north ridge of Tantalus with occasional forays onto the west side snow staying on the...

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