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Garibaldi Northeast Face Route
Timestamp Free: 2020.08.07 - 03:49:23
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Garibaldi Ranges
  (2 days)
Participants: Robin Tivy, Steve Grant, Judy Needham, Jackelyn Bradshaw Kicking steps up steep snow slope.
A description of the typical climb up Mount Garibaldi as part of a neve ski traverse.
This is the standard route up Mount Garibaldi. My main goal in writing this down is to straighten out the names of the different features and routes on the mountain. I call the "north ridge" the ridge that leads north and a bit west from the peak. It separates the North Pitt Glacier from the Warren Glacier. Fairley refers to something called Northwest ridge, which may be the same thing.

In particular, it is important to distinguish between the "East Face" and Northeast face discussed in the old guidebooks. I call it the "northeast" face route, as opposed to the "east" face in some reports. It could also be called the "North Pitt Glacier" route, since that is the label plastered across the route on BC Base Map. By whatever name, the route is often done as part of a ski traverse across the Garibaldi Neve.

The two times I've done it have been in March, and June in the 1980's. In both cases, we just kicked steps up the snow face, and the bergshrund was buried. Although we had a rope with us, we didn't use it. Once you are across the bergshrund, you continue kicking steps up a shallow couloir till you reach the ridge line. At the ridge line, there is a small rock fang on your right (north) which looks great in photos, but is too small to show up on the 1:20,000 BC base map. From this point, the route to the main peak is to tramp up the crest of the ridge. This is easy, and not worrysome. The summit itself is big enough for 3 or 4 people at once.

On the way down, perhaps the most worrysome and spectacular part is just as you reach the fang and start down the top part of the "couloir". I faced inward at this point, and was careful not to slip. I don't remember using the ice axe.

The waypoints below I picked off the map, as best as I can remember....

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