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Garibaldi - East Face, South of Summit Pyramid - Major Guidebook Problem
Timestamp Free: 2018.09.23 - 20:08:35
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Garibaldi Ranges
  (2 days)
Participants: Paul Adam and Dick Culbert
Difficulty: 4: Class 3-4, rappel from summit down couloir
The guidebooks have SERIOUSLY misrated the difficulties and dangers of the final summit pyramid part of this route.
On the weekend of July 23-24, 2006, Dick Culbert and I made an ascent of Mount Garibaldi via the route referred to as the "East Face" route in Fairley's guide, and Culbert's guide. This is the route that is always south of The Tent, and passes the main peak on the south side to gain the col between Garibaldi and Atwell. The ascent from Ring Creek could be correctly described as being on the EAST FACE but SOUTH of the main summit. The face climbed actually faces east; it never actually faces south, or any other direction but true east. The summit pyramid is climb on its west side

We camped in Ring Creek. It took us five hours to reach the summit. Forty-five minutes were needed to descend the summit pyramid, and then just under two hours to return to Ring Creek.

The description of the route on the summit pyramid, which first appeared in the 1969 version of Culbert's guide, and then appeared unchanged in the 1974 guide, Fairley's guide, and most recently in "Alpine Select" is seriously flawed to the point of being dangerous. Dick does not remember where the description came from but he now says it is definitely wrong and misleading.

PLEASE REVISE YOUR READING OF THE GUIDEBOOK. THIS IS A VERY SERIOUS ASCENT ON VERY LOOSE ROCK.

A reading of the description of the ascent of the summit pyramid of Garbaldi gives one the impression that it is a cakewalk. IT IS ANYTHING BUT!!!

In "Alpine Select," it is called "the easiest route to the summit. That may be true as far as reaching the base of the summit pyramid is concerned but having climbed both the routes on the summit pyramid there is no doubt in my mind that the Warren Glacier is easier and, more importantly, safer as far as the summit pyramid is concerned.

If filled with snow it would be of a similar...

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