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Heat Exhaustion on Mount Garibaldi
Timestamp Free: 2021.01.20 - 21:16:34
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Garibaldi Ranges
  (1 days)     Elevation Gain: 1700m
Participants: Matt Gunn, Robin McKillop, Scott Nelson
Difficulty: 4: 45 degree ski descent from the summit
A 1 day ski ascent and descent from the summit of Mt. Garibaldi via Brohm Ridge on what turned out to be the hottest day of the year.
Matt Gunn, Robin McKillop and I decided on a Mt. Garibaldi day trip for the weekend. The weatherman predicted certain sunshine, but the forecast was eventually ratcheted up to 30 degrees for Squamish. Not wanting to die in an avalanche on the NE face (which gets the first sun of the day), we planned for an early start and drove up friday after work.

An accident on the highway stopped us for a few hours, so we didn't make it to the end of the Brohm ridge logging road until after dark. With the alarms set for 2am, I think we all got about 3 hours of sleep that night.

The snow was patchy on the first going down past the gate, but at the bottom we reached nearly continuous snow. It was pitch black out as we skied up the road, which made things interesting wherever we had to go around a bare patch. As we climbed into the alpine, the moon rose which made for awesome night skiing conditions - cool, calm, perfectly clear and with good visibility. As usual when skiing with Matt and Robin, I was at the back of the group for most of the ski, which is not to say that I was moving slowly, just that they are very fast.

Skiing along the top of Brohm Ridge we could see the sky lightening in the east, and we reached the Warren Glacier just after sunrise at about 5:30am. No time for waiting around though, as the sun was no doubt already starting to melt the thin crust on the NE face. Gliding across the Warren was pleasant, and then we started the climb up to Garibaldi itself. Matt and Robin were kind enough to stop and let me catch up just below the bergschrund.

The schrund was just starting to open up, so we skied across unroped on the climber's right side, took our skis off, stashed the rope and started kicking steps up the 45 degree headwall. At 7:30am, we were all...

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