After parking at the Cougar Creek parking lot in Canmore (same as for the sport climbs), we cruised up the creek. Immediately upstream of Cosmology Crag (a little before "Canadian Forks"), there is a faint trail heading steeply into the woods (about one hour). There was a small cairn and some flagging tape when we were there. From here, some pleasant forest walking and a small amount of unpleasant scree gains you about 500 m to some slabs where the trail peters out. Climb these easy slabs for a few meters to the base of the first rockband proper. This takes about one more hour.
From here, proceed left and down along the base of the wall for about 100 m. Before the trail here disappears completely, there was a piece of old tarp under a rock marking the start of the climbing; a piton is found almost immediately (about 2 m). We climbed up to a tree (with a piton slightly above it behind a flake) and roped up. There is some really neat rock here: black slower-weathering horizontal bands which make very nice holds. Proceeding up from the tree into a slight left-facing corner, you pass another piton stepping right onto a ledge and into another low-angle slabby area. Just over 30 m from the tree gets you to some rappel tat on another tree and the end of the first band.
More tree-walking and a little scrambling leads to the second, shorter band and a few moves up this gain you the ridge proper. This is the best part of the climb: lots of kinfe-edge scrambling and narrow ridge-walking past a bunch of stupid, unnecessary bolts which are... To see the full trip report you must login as a paid member. Use the Login Page. (message p3)
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