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My Mount McKinley Disappointment in 1978 - Original Journal Notes
Timestamp Free: 2020.08.03 - 07:36:12
Ranges: North America Ranges / Alaska Ranges
  (21 days)
Participants: John Toms, Robin Tivy, Len Potter, Chris Kubinski, John Hugman, Craig Parfett
Difficulty: 3: A long slog, west buttress steep but not very scary. High altitude causes problems for most, including me.
This article is an exact copy of my notes I wrote day by day in my black book. All about hubris...
Here is exactly what I wrote in my "black book" journal that I kept for our Mount McKinley expedition. Its not very useful for route info, just what I was thinking, day by day.

The trip was organized by the late John Toms, my house mate in Calgary. We had driven my 1969 Econoline van from Calgary to Seattle, then flew to Anchorage, then after several days, taken the Alaska Railway train to Talkeetna. My journal started while waiting on the airstrip at Talkeetna:

Day 1: June 28, 1978 9:15PM
Just sitting in the airstrip waiting, a lot has happened in the last few days. We were just reviewing the "Z" pulley rescue system for crevasse rescue, no one knew it well enough, although everyone had memorized its operation. Would we remember it under conditions of storm, stress and high altitude is another matter.

Being here is a lot like I imagine being a bomber pilot would be. All of us are a little scared, the roar of the plane engines adds glory to it all, both planes are being used to put us on the mountain, and here comes one of the planes now. Our food and some supplies have already gone.

Day 2 - June 28, 11:00 PM
We're on the glacier at 7000', set up the tents and waiting for the last load which will include Huggy (John Hugman), Chris and Craig. The flight in was like a scene from "2001 A Space Odessey" - big glaciers, peaks and passes. We had a big discussion of which direction Mckinley actually is, with three options. Sort gear, make dinner, the second plane arrives. Just as he takes off, it whites out and snow is now falling. Just in time!

Day 3 - June 29 9:00AM (2130m)
Snowing, with no wind.

Day 4 - June 29 12:00PM - Camp 1 2100m.
Today we got an idea of how big this mountain really is. Carried 350 lbs of...

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