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Attempts on and Ascents of Bident and Quadra Mountains
Timestamp Free: 2020.02.24 - 18:40:13
Ranges: North America Ranges / Rocky Mountains / Canadian Rockies / Continental Ranges / Park Ranges / Bow Range
  (2 days)
Participants: Liz Morton, Raylene Frechette, Rick Collier
Difficulty: 5: Exposed scrambling to 5.3; steep snow
This article recounts three trips into the Bident and Quadra area, replete with disaster, success, and disappointment
Mount Quadra (10, 410')is a fascinating and fairly difficult peak that, because of a substantial approach, probably only sees a handful of ascents every summer; however, it is well worth the effort to ascend since the climbing is intricate and interesting and the views from the summit superb.

I've been on or around Quadra three times and into the Boom Glacier valley another three or four times (on skis), but only climbed it once. Maybe I'm just getting old, but I suspect that to make this peak as pleasant a climb as possible one would want to bivy at least one night - and perhaps two - somewhere near the col at the NE end of the valley or, as we did, in the meadows below Bident.

The first time I attempted Quadra (and it was a pretty vague attempt), I hiked in from Moraine Lake and up Consolation valley to the col; I had some kind of wild-eyed fantasy that I would climb Bident from Consolation Pass, drop down to the Bident/Quadra col, and ascend to the summit of Quadra. Well, it was 1975 and I had just moved into my early 30s, which I thought at the time was desperately old; I wanted to climb everything solo by hard routes. But I really wasn't that great a climber, and I was certainly cautious enough to know when I was in over my head.

And I was, since the first warning signal came when I had scrambled a goodly ways toward the summit of Bident up the E face and an entire 30' wall of rock came crashing down - with me on it about half way up! I leapt to the side and managed somehow to find a decent landing spot and not fall any further or break a leg; I sat on my perch for some time watching as tons of rock poured down the side of the mountain and over a cliff into Consolation valley. That was certainly a wake-up call about the quality of the rock in the Rockies...

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