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Mount Sloan - New Route on Southwest Buttress
Timestamp Free: 2019.08.20 - 04:17:38
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Bridge-Lillooet Divide
  (2 days)
Participants: Drew Brayshaw, Merran Fahlman Grade II 5.7 (one or two avoidable 5.8 moves). Alpine Grade AD-
First ascent of a short rock route on the SW Buttress of Mt Sloan.
"With all that granite on the south side of Sloan, there must be some decent, climbable rock other than the SE Buttress." After thinking that for several years, I finally did something about it in July 2005. Merran and I drove up to Gold Bridge for the weekend with a plan to get into the alpine and explore around. I wanted to try one of the many ribs on Sloan's south face. Mer wanted to climb good rock. The main goal of the weekend was to ensure that the two of us did something that satisfied both of us.

Having been in to Sloan several times before I can say I have the approach hike all figured out now. We followed the creek to the waterfall, quickly up the lower headwall to the Lower Ault Lake, up the creek a ways and then up pumice slopes to the campsite at the upper lake. It was a bit too late to get in any extra climbing so instead we had a swim in the lake, took naps, hiked over to boulder, and so on. The wasp nest was gone from Steve's boulder problem, by the way.

Up not so early the next morning. Mer had a hole in her Thermarest and was a bit grumpy in the morning until her coffee was brewed. Then it was time to rack up, grab packs and begin the approach. It was an absolutely stellar day with bluebird arch and shining lake water, little clouds drifting by and so on. A brief cold front overnight had not rained on us but had freshly snowed on Big Dog in the Shulaps Range. This snow melted away as the day went on, every time we looked over at it, it was less and less there until it was finally gone. A snowflake in July has a rough and short life.

After hiking past and rejecting every other rib on the face we decided to climb the leftmost one. This is two gullies left of the normal scramble route and is distinguished by a little pinnacle at its lower...

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