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The North Face of Soprano Peak: Things to Do in the Downton During a Snowstorm
Timestamp Free: 2020.06.01 - 23:34:38
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Lillooet Ranges / Cayoosh Range / Cayoosh Range East
  (1 days)
Participants: Steven Harng, Jordan Peters 3-4 pitches to low 5th class.
We climbed a short new route on the north face of Soprano Peak.
After visiting the lovely Holly Lake area last weekend, I made a point to go back one day to check out the climbing potential on Soprano Peak and Faulty Tower. A brief weather window in Lillooet on Sunday allowed for a much-quicker than anticipated return with Steve Harng this past Sunday.

Our proposed objective was one of the ribs on the north face of Soprano Peak, which look like they are about 1500 feet high, but in fact are only about 500. But shortly after leaving the truck, though, it began to snow quite heavily and climbing plans for the day seemed to vanish in [px]snow.jpg[c]the soggy meadows.[/px]

For whatever reason, we kept going in the snow, all the way to the toe of the buttress. As we started climbing, we discussed the stupidity of climbing in the snow on greasy lichen. Training. It's good for you. What else are we going to do? Well, we're here, we might as well do something. But we kept going. I have no idea why.

The climbing down low for 1-2 ropelengths was surprisingly good. and we remarked that it would be even better when your shoes weren't slipping off wet edges a hundred feet off the deck. We got to a point where we needed a belay and realized that we should have put our harnesses on long ago; clinging to moss clumps on sketchy rock while trying to squeeze into a harness is always fun! Steve led a very nice pitch of fifth class cracks which deposited us in a dirt gully (which was eerily similar to the north gully on Mystery Peak which we we did last summer), which we picked our way up for about 70 simulclimbed metres to the summit ridge: [photo]toppingout.jpg[caption]Steve topping out at the top of the route.[/photo]

But getting to the summit from where we were was indeed a problem. There were steep...

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