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The Holly Lake Area in the Eastern Cayoosh
Timestamp Free: 2020.09.19 - 05:33:56
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Lillooet Ranges / Cayoosh Range / Cayoosh Range East
  (2 days)
Participants: Jordan Peters, Erika Tarris
An exploratory venture into the basin at the head of the northwest fork of Downton Creek yields another installment of Jordan's wilderness rants.
The true location of the Holly Lake Peaks, written of in the 1990 CAJ by Alan Greer, has always troubled me. Greer notes a basin of granite peaks surrounding a lake-strewn basin in the western end of Downton Creek, and the possibility for technical climbing on a feature he called Faulty Tower. Last year, after seeing them from two different vantages, I had entered these peaks in the Bivouac system corresponding to the group of lakes and peaks further south. I supposed I could have looked Greer up for the true details of the area, but its always more fun sussing these things out yourself!

 See Photo Downton Creek Headwaters
 See trip Traverse Part Way round Downton Creek

While the proliferation of roads in the Downton drainage would suggest a history of mountain travel likely before Greer called it a "new area" in the late 1980s, I vaguely believe that if a name makes it into the CAJ then it should be supported and used whenever possible, if only to lend credence to a definitive documentation of Canadian mountaineering. (Editors Note: Longtime resident of Lillooet, Mike Kennedy says that he and Bruce Fairley were in this area well before Alan Greer. However Mike Kennedy also said his uncle climbed "everything" in every area, so you can't be sure.)

So with a rainy forecast we thought it might be a good time to go rain hiking on the drier side of the Duffey and get to the bottom of the so-called Holly Lake Peaks. We took a rack and a rope with us just in case the weather cleared enough for us to get up a route on Faulty Tower. But from the end of the road I knew at once looking into this basin that the peaks we were after were indeed in the next valley north. Oblivious to the possibility of a trail, we bashed straight up the...

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