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Good Neighbor Peak - South Spur 2005
Timestamp Free: 2020.02.17 - 03:02:36
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Saint Elias Mountains / Icefield Ranges
  (18 days)
Participants: Ade Miller and Simeon Warner AK 4+, 5.5, AI 3+
An ascent of Good Neighbor Peak, 15,700 (AK 4+, 5.5, AI 3+). Third ascent of the route and first British ascent over a period of six days in May 2005.
In May 1993 I met Bill Pilling and Karl Dietrich in Yakutat, AK. I was one of a team of four who had just completed the forth ascent of Mount Augusta (14,070') while they had put up a new route on the south summit of Mount Vancouver, Good Neighbor Peak (15,700'). Bill wasn't the World's biggest advertisement for the route, despite having good things to say about it. He'd smashed his leg up in a crevasse fall on the descent and had just spent several days getting back to their basecamp. His leg was about twice this size it should have been and didn't seem to bend so well.

Now it had come full circle. Simeon and I had arrived on the Valerie Glacier the previous week recced the route and aclimatized by climbing a 1,500' couloir on a 9800' peak near our camp and the W face of Point 9695'. A further few days were then spent waiting for better weather. Simeon and I were now camped below the initial couloir on the S Spur at 8260'. We had four day's food and fuel for maybe six days. Our plan to climb the route in three to four days and descend the 1967 Centennial Route (S Spur of the SE Ridge) in another day. The Mark Twight packing algorithm had been applied to the full and all extraneous gear had been left behind.

It was now May 16th 2005. That afternoon we'd skied from our basecamp and descended a 600' couloir to gain the glacier below Good Neighbor's SW face. The whole thing didn't get off to an auspicious start when the bergshrund completely collapsed on Simeon leaving him hanging in free space. Thankfully I had a good belay and we extracted ourselves from the whole mess. I found a rock anchor and after blowing some of our precious rappel tape was able to join him. We had briefly pondered how we were going to get back up the couloir, and then set off up the edge of...

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