We finally came up onto the glacier and quickly set up camp and sat back to relax, make some food and drink a little wine. A skier appeared from below us - followed by two others - arriving on the glacier to set up camp with plans to ski Mount Slalock the next day.
We had an early night under bright stars, but as we settled into bed the clouds were gathering and the wind was picking up. After years of heavy but bombproof comfort in my Trango Assault 4-season tent, I had decided to give 'ultralight' a try, and was spending the night in my new MSR Microzoid - essentially a little nylon & mesh coffin. I was a little nervous as the wind whipped around but other than a little spindrift buildup on the mesh I was very comfortable that night, and the wind passed easily overhead.
We woke up at about 4:30, and with a series of painful contortions, I managed to get completely dressed inside my sleeping bag. Just after 5:00 we roped up for the short jaunt along Joffre's flank to the base of the couloir. Broken cloud cover was blowing in - Matier was completely invisible, while... To see the full trip report you must login as a paid member. Use the Login Page. (message p3)
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