We found that it was well described in McLane's guidebook and we chose the right-hand variation. We quickly gained the ridge (3rd class... rockfall danger), had a nice break, and the bugs came out. Two short (ropedrag), dirty, but somehow enjoyable pitches of 5.8 joined us up with the left-hand variation.
Fun simulclimbing along the 2nd/3rd class ridge crest led us to the next "step". On the left of the crest is a difficult looking 5m corner crack but it seemed like the only way to go... i gave it a try and found it very enjoyable due to nice footedges, I traversed rightwards up a sort of lower-angled diagonal crack system past a very loose rusty pin, then directly up past a ledge with trees and rapslings to the crest (a 55m pitch to 5.9). To see the full trip report you must login as a paid member. Use the Login Page. (message p3)
Simulclimbing the exposed ridge on good rock was great fun and gave a good view of the headwall. Just before the headwall is a short gully you must downclimb to the left(south) and then head up right to the base of the wall or the Camel's Toe as I liked to call it.
This is where I found the guidebook description to be a bit sketchy... if you were to climb directly up the headwall it...
To see the full trip report you must login as a paid member. Use the Login Page. (message p3)