Bivouac.com   Trip Page   Home     Help   Index     Login
Crown Mountain, Widowmaker Arete
Timestamp Free: 2019.03.25 - 17:48:21
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Howe Sound Group
  (1 days)
Participants: Derek and Andrew Rennie
Difficulty: 5: Mixed class 4 and 5, up to class 5.9. Simulclimbing and scrambling on exposed ridge.
Article describes the approach and climb of the NE Butress of the Camel (widowmaker Arret), a subpeak of Crown mountain.
At 3:15am my brother and I started for our objective, first hiking up the Grouse Grind. (At this time of the morning most of the cologne smell is gone and the trail gives a surprisingly good warmup). Water can be found at the top from a hose near the hikers entrance to the chalet so we topped up our bottles. Then after an unsuccessful attempt to steal a golf cart we hiked along the obvious trail over Dam Mountain and along the ridge to Crown Pass. From here we dropped east into Hanes Creek and then swung around to the east face of Crown Mountain (above Lynn headwaters). A short bushwack to the north led us to the base of the route around 7am.

We found that it was well described in McLane's guidebook and we chose the right-hand variation. We quickly gained the ridge (3rd class... rockfall danger), had a nice break, and the bugs came out. Two short (ropedrag), dirty, but somehow enjoyable pitches of 5.8 joined us up with the left-hand variation.

Fun simulclimbing along the 2nd/3rd class ridge crest led us to the next "step". On the left of the crest is a difficult looking 5m corner crack but it seemed like the only way to go... i gave it a try and found it very enjoyable due to nice footedges, I traversed rightwards up a sort of lower-angled diagonal crack system past a very loose rusty pin, then directly up past a ledge with trees and rapslings to the crest (a 55m pitch to 5.9).
 Simulclimbing the exposed ridge on good rock was great fun and gave a good view of the headwall. Just before the headwall is a short gully you must downclimb to the left(south) and then head up right to the base of the wall or the Camel's Toe as I liked to call it.
 This is where I found the guidebook description to be a bit sketchy... if you were to climb directly up the headwall it...

To see the full trip report you must login as a paid member. Use the Login Page. (message p3)