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Ascent of Middle Brother
Timestamp Free: 2020.11.24 - 22:11:32
Ranges: North America Ranges / Rocky Mountains / Canadian Rockies / Continental Ranges / Front Ranges
  (4 days)
Participants: Martin Krippl, Rick Collier
Difficulty: 4: Difficult scramble, with some steep snow and a slightly crevassed pocket glacier
This report details the approach route to Three Brothers Lake and an ascent of Middle Brother (10,230')to the north
On August 21, 1997, Martin Krippl and I (Rick Collier) hiked the 16 km or so up Mosquito Creek, over N Molar Pass, and down to Fish Lakes; after lunch, we continued down what Graeme Pole so appropriately calls "a horse-churned hell of a trail" to the Pipestone River in occasional drizzle and perpetual cloud - 7 hrs from the car park on the BJ highway. Despite the inclement weather, we had a nice camp and a filling, warm supper in a meadow by the side of the river.

About 7:30am on the morning of the 22nd, with the skies having cleared, we started up the open forest, meadows, and rock slopes that lead to what is often called Three Brothers Lake or Lone-Isle Lake at GR 604/247 on 82 N/9 (Hector Lake) - a very picturesque area. After an ascent of some 1500' and 3 km through light forest and meadows, we reached the S end of the lake about 9:15am. After setting up our camp, we rambled off to climb Dip Slope Mountain (which see).

The next day, August 23, Martin and I set off at 7:30am to climb the most northerly of the Three Brothers cluster of peaks, sometimes known as the East (or North) Peak of the Three Brothers, or, because of its elevation (10,230'), Middle Brother. All three of these peaks were first ascended over a period of two days by the redoubtable team of Katie Gardiner and Ernst Feuz, Jr., in September of 1937. It was Katie herself who named these peaks "because they seemed akin and adjacent" (Glen Boles, "Place Names of the Canadian Alps", p. 329), although one cannot help but wonder if she did not select this title to balance with similar nomenclature - The Three Sisters - for a group of peaks just S of Canmore.

We made our way easily around the W side of the lake and up into the NW valley (this valley parallels the one we ascended to the E on the...

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