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Serra Five (Mount Waddington Area)
Timestamp Free: 2019.07.15 - 18:44:46
Ranges: Serra Peaks
  (4 days)
Participants: Doug Artman, Tom Reid A difficult alpine outing requiring good crevasse, snow, ice and rock skills.
Planned to do a modified Waddington traverse, starting with Serra Five and traversing Asperity, Tiedeman, Combatant, and Waddington. But bailed after Serra V.
7/24 We had all the base camp necessities flown in with us to Sunny Knob. Beer, nachos, salsa, Baileys, you know just the stuff you really need. The plan was to do a modified Waddington traverse, starting with Serra Five and traversing Asperity, Tiedeman, Combatant, NW and Main pk. of Waddington. Then for shits and giggles maybe Bravo on the way down. Ambitious plan. Weather forecast was good. We packed and planned for a 3AM getaway the next morning.

7/25 I cut Tom's sleep short by waking him at about 2AM and making him look up at the awesome display of Northern Lights being played out overhead. The best I've seen in many years. So it wasn't much more sleep after that. Stumbling down the slopes of Sunny Knob and out across the morainal debris of the Tiedeman by headlamp we headed for the base of the Serra glacier and climbed up to it through a veritable bowling alley of shattered rock. Then across the lower apron of the Serra I led up into a complex crevasse field that we hoped would lead to 'Carl's couloir'. We climbed up the ice slope and through the crevasses often on front points until finally we were on easier ground and off battery power. The double bergshrund ahead looked pretty intimidating and we had no idea if we could find a way through. I hit the shrund first and probed to the left hand moat.

Much to my relief there was a small slot we could climb but too narrow for packs. We would have to haul. Tom came up and insisted on checking the right side. It just looked ridiculous to me. He climbed about 100 ft. of rock and lo and behold! The moat on that side looked climbable...with packs! Good on ya Tom! Up we went through the moat and came out into the upper 'shrund. Tom started for the moat again but I spied an avalanche cone that appeared to run...

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