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Mount Sloan Northeast Ridge Scramble
Timestamp Free: 2020.08.08 - 13:14:55
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Bridge-Lillooet Divide
  (1 days)
Participants: Don Funk Exposed class 4.
An exposed class 4 scramble up the NE ridge of Mt Sloan. Descent via a class 3 south side gulley and out along Ault Creek.
A sudden change in my plans for a week off left me scrambling for trip ideas, with virtually no notice to give for climbing partners. I was looking to get in a good, long and exposed ridge scramble on a high peak, somewhere in the Coast Range of BC. Fred Touche mentioned he was interested in climbing the NE ridge of Sloan, which had me interested as well. Unfortunately, he wasn't available to do it Saturday, and so decided to climb the NE ridge solo, with a descent of a class 3 south facing gulley. I also noticed that Drew Brayshaw had posted a recent trip report on the route. After doing a bit more research, I found yet another good trip report, which indicated the route is 4th class (providing you avoid 5th class gendarmes along the ridge) and can be done without a rope if the rock is dry. So this is my experience of this excellent route.

I set off for the Hurley River Road from my home in Surrey early on a Saturday morning, with our long stretch of good summer weather continuing. The Hurley was rough and like a washboard as usual, particularly on the hills. I arrived at the bridge over Ault Creek about 4.5 hours later. From here there was an inspiring view of the lower and mid section of the NE ridge. At the road junction beyond the bridge, there are two options. Option A is to drive up the left branch further along Ault Creek to the roads end, and bushwack directly up to the NE ridge. Option B involves driving up the right hand branch (as Drew Brayshaw pointed out in his report), ignoring spur branches to its end and bushwacking over to the ridge. This 2nd option is attractive as it takes one higher and offers easier access to the ridge. The disadvantage is that this route is longer (further from the mountain) and in any case one would have to hike...

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