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Cayoosh Southwest Ridge
Timestamp Free: 2020.07.10 - 06:37:20
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Lillooet Ranges / Cayoosh Range / Cayoosh Range West
  (2 days)     Elevation Gain: 1494m
Participants: Laurent Mingo, Gwenn Flowers
Difficulty: 3: Class 3
A great approach via the south to high basins S of Cayoosh.

Follow broad S treed ridge from parking lot to 6400", then short mellow, open meadows to small lake at 332817 (NAD27). What you see from here is not the peak, not even the SW ridge. We camped above the lake enjoying the views.

Ascend steep grassy slope to reach shoulder NNW of the lake. From there descend along the shoulder to the W until you reach the first obvious clump of trees at about 6500", appr. 328821. From there turn N (right) to find an easy rocky ledge under small cliff (wet with snow melt from above, watch for rock fall). There still was snow there, but it was easy to walk along the gap between the snow and the cliff wall.

Descend about 100 to 200" before crossing the basin towards top of moraine. For a little while is it not too pleasant here as the moraine is, as expected, baked. Once on top, it is flat again, and once you cross the glacier creek there are plenty of boulders where to leave your overnight pack, and only take day gear. From there Cayoosh is 2000" straight up.

The obvious way is along the broad shoulder W of the summit. Very pleasant ridge, with a nice snow slope climber left very inviting for the descent. We reach the base of the summit pyramid at lunch time (338832), 7800". From there it looks quite steep, and certainly not "NTD". Just right of the right side of the snow slope, looking up, one can pick up a line through a series of cracks, and rocks. There are in fact many small ledges on the way and it is a very pleasant scramble. Good rock. Most of it is Class 3, as soon as you can contour on the SW ridge proper, it becomes easier Class 2 to NTD for the last 200" vertical.

More or less the same way down the rocks, then butt sliding/walking the snow slope down to...

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