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Tantalus Range: Alpha, Dione, Serratus, Pelops, Niobe
Timestamp Free: 2020.12.03 - 10:05:59
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges
  (5 days)
Participants: Steph Durocher, Matt Brown, Reid Holmes AD, 4th-class rock, glacier travel
This report describes five days of climbing in the southern and central Tantalus range: Alpha, Dione, Serratus, Pelops, and Niobe.
Starting from the eastern shore of the Squamish River, our party of three, Matt Brown, Reid Holmes, and Steph Durocher, spent five days in the southern and central Tantalus range visiting the summits of Alpha, Dione, Serratus, Pelops, and Niobe. Bivies were spent at the Russian Army Camp, the Red Tit Hut (2), and the Sand Spit Camp on Lake Lovely Water. Highlights included the tyrolean traverse and route-finding on Dione and Serratus.

Located just northeast of Squamish, Tantalus Provincial Park contains some of the most spectacular alpine terrain on the West Coast. Amazingly, although this alpine playground contains dozens of quality peaks in close proximity of Vancouver, the area appears to remain uncrowded due to its isolation from the Sea to Sky corridor by the Squamish River. Parties typically fly in or ferry across the river. We chose to limit our mechanized access to the drive and began our trip with the tyrolean traverse across the water. [photo]Tantmap.jpg[caption]Tantalus Map[/photo]

Day 1 - Thursday July 15 - Squamish River to Russian Army Camp
After a quick getaway northbound from Vancouver at 7:00 am, we were soon stepping into our harnesses below the renowned steel cable on the eastern shore of the Squamish River [elevation 40 m]. Steph went first, choosing to secure himself to the cable on a single (60 cm) sling and his pack to the main biner on a double (120 cm) sling. This made the traverse unnecessarily strenuous by requiring and upward pull of the arms instead of a lateral pull. Reid traversed next and significantly improved the technique by doubling his single sling to 30 cm, bringing him much closer to the cable. His genius was also made evident by securing his pack to the cable independently from himself, but keeping a tether line...

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