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North Face of Slalok. . . the Easy Way
Timestamp Free: 2020.03.31 - 16:23:07
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Lillooet Ranges / Joffre Group
  (1 days)
Participants: Mark Burgoyne, Greg Iuzzolino
Difficulty: 4: Class 3/4,~PD+
Climb of the North Side of Slalok Mountain on the Stonecrop glacier. Approach from Joffre Lakes Parking Lot
I was eager to do a glacier climb so I called up my friend Mark, and asked him if he could think of anything good to climb. We decided to climb something north of Vancouver and chose the location on the way to the climb. Mark suggested something in the Joffre group. I'd only been in there a couple of times and we had the maps and books so I agreed. Flipping through the Fairley guide, I found Slalok mountain, an interesting climb with a few nice routes.

Leaving Vancouver on Sun morning at 545 am, we reached Pemberton and hit the Duffey Lake road. Drove til the Joffre lakes parking area and were suited up and hiking on the approach trail by 930 am. Immediately on the trail we reached the Lower Joffre lake and spotted Slalok with the Stonecrop glacier...enough to make any mountaineers jaw drop.

The approach to the upper Joffre Lake took 2.5 hrs and that was going at a leisurely pace with full backpacks. It has minimal elevation gain and is well maintained. We chose to avoid the crowds camped at the day hiker campsite beside the Upper Joffre lake and camped at a nearby unoccupied site that was apparently build by a boy scout group. This site is highly recommended. Flat ground, closer to the mountains than the day hiker campsite, small creek with fresh water running at the campsite, outhouse... Yup, the boy scouts must definitely be commended.

We quickly set up our tent and packed our climbing gear. We set off for the Stonecrop glacier at 1pm. The glacier slope looked very imposing from a distance but as we got closer, we realized that it wasn't that bad. The Fairley guide said that the North side can be summited in 4.5 hrs from the Upper Joffre Lake so we figured we could just do it before dark. In 45 minutes we had finished walking across the boulder field...

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