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Brambles, Buttress, Sky -- The Return to Beyond
Timestamp Free: 2020.05.26 - 22:06:34
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Lillooet Ranges
  (1 days)
Participants: Jordan Peters, Mike Layton D+ 5.10 A1
A new route on the wonderful 6800' granite peak in Kookipi West Creek. Not as elegant as Back of Beyond, but in many ways a harder, angrier climb.
The Nothing Season. November to June. Under the bleak weather and snow, things start to germinate. Memories are reassessed. We think back to last season's climbs and ahead to the coming ones. Memories of a giant blank slab and "the only way through" somehow get changed. There was another way, I remember now. Other cracks on that slab. We could go back. There is another stellar route there. We are sure of it. Another classic. See trip Back of Beyond Buttress.

Mike and I bivy on the road across from the peak and crack beers in celebration of the isolation and possibility of this world that lets us be so close to such wealth. Yes, it needs a name. We could not decide on one. Mike liked Serendipity Peak, I thought of Mount Ichor. I won.

It is bigger than I remember and the awe of the thing comes back over the time since we had last been here. Clean. Amazing.

The day goes in a stream. Again, it takes an exact ninety minutes to stare up in awe at this gem of climbing architecture. [photo]others.jpg[caption]Other, smaller peaks here and there[/photo] come into view with the same great granite[/photo]

I had dreamt all through the two years of other crack systems on the slab, maybe on the right edge so that a route could go up the west side of the mountain in a mirror image of Back of Beyond. And sure enough, there it is, too good to be true, the crystallization of idle fancy: [photo]start.jpg[caption]The right side of the Endurance Slab. The first pitch of the new route went up the brilliant finger-cracks in centre to gain the diagonal crack[/photo]

"You want first pitch again Jordan?"

"You better believe it."

Fifty metres of fantastic cracks in a dream of 10a perfection and I'm woozy in a little shady alcove belay, lovin every minute of...

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