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Ascent of the W Ridge of Mt. Magog
Timestamp Free: 2020.02.24 - 23:46:38
Ranges: North America Ranges / Rocky Mountains / Canadian Rockies / Continental Ranges / Park Ranges
  (1 days)
Participants: Rick Collier, Martin Taylor, David Shadbolt
Difficulty: 5: 5.5
This is a brief description of a rock climb up Mt. Magog, near Mt. Assiniboine -- a fine day's outing in a high and remote area
Mt. Magog (10,150'): August 15 - Rick Collier, Martin Taylor & David Shadbolt

On the morning of the 15th, I got up early at the campground on the N shore of Lake Magog and climbed up the headwall, joining Martin and David (who had climbed Assiniboine from the Hind Hut the day before) at a high point where the NE moraine under Assiniboine joins the Magog Glacier. We roped up and stomped off for 1.25 km across the Magog Glacier, with excellent views of our objective (See Magog), reaching a point just below the Magog/Assiniboine col a half hour or so later. Some moderately serious scrambling brought us to the base of the cliffs of the W ridge. From there we climbed two spectacular rock pitches (5.5-5.6), Martin leading the first and I the second. The climbing was steep and exposed, but on solid limestone that could be well protected. On my pitch there was an exposed, slightly overhanging finger-tip layback on which I had a foothold blow out; otherwise the climbing was quite enjoyable. Once up the two rock pitches, there was the inevitable hour or so of scrambling and traversing to reach the summit cairn on the NE end. Interestingly enough, in the register was a slip of paper dated 1935, and on it were the signatures of Edward Feuz and Georgia Englehard (among others). We descended the N ridge and then down-climbed an ice gully on the NW face, eventually circling back on steep snow to just below the Magog/Assiniboine col. Then easily across the glacier and down the headwall to camp and a hearty supper....

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