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Alpha-Serratus Traverse
Timestamp Free: 2020.07.13 - 07:58:05
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges
  (2 days)
Participants: Todd Gerhart, Andrew McLeod, Stephen Ziff On and off-trail travel, 2 pitches of class 5, mostly class 3-4, exposed rock and snow
A traverse of Alpha and Serratus, via their east ridges, from the Squamish River.
Having made reservations for a chopper to drop us off at the beginning of the Tantalus traverse, we were bummed to find out that all choppers were busy fighting forest fires and not available to fly us into our objective. After combing many guidebooks and finding a canoe, we decided to do a traverse in the Tantalus Range, but of Alpha and Serratus, not the one described in the McLean guide, and to hump it up the hill to Lake Lovelywater.

With an early morning departure from Vancouver, I met Todd and Andrew in Squamish and we headed up the river road looking forward to another alpine trip. When we saw the cable crossing, we were happy to have a borrowed canoe on top of the car! We decided to cross by canoe just upstream of the cable crossing because we did not feel like driving on a deteriorating road any longer and we figured that fewer folks intent on stealing a canoe would look for one near the cable. The current was quite weak and we headed across without incident, locked the canoe to a tree and walked the pleasant trail until we hit the thicker slide alder section.

After a little over 2 .5 hours from the time we left the canoe, we were at Lake Lovelywater, snacking and filling our water bottles and getting ready for the next grind up the hill. We found the route to the base of Alpha's East Ridge quite well flagged and relatively easy to follow. A little over an hour after leaving the hut we were at the col, enjoying the sun, amazing views, and sucking back some much needed water and calories. Andrew, however, was not happy. Somewhere between the hut and the col, his length thermarest had slipped out of his pack's compression straps. Since he did not carry a sleeping bag, he was in for a chilly night.

An enjoyable walk up the glacier brought us to the...

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