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Persistence on 8380: The Unraveling of Mysteries on Mount Land
Timestamp Free: 2019.09.16 - 13:38:11
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Bridge-Lillooet Divide
  (2 days)
Participants: Jordan Peters, Steve Harng, Drew Brayshaw
A piece of mountaineering history is filled in. The summit of 8380 is finally reached and, no, it was not unclimbed and, yes, it is a wonderful peak.
This all started a few years back with a casual interest in a peak with no recorded activity which, over time, festered into a bit of an obsession. The "there be dragons" treatment of 8380 in Fairley's guide ("a route of class five undoubtedly exists here"), the good granite of nearby Sloan, and my repeated inability to reach the summit amounted to a bit of a thorn in my side.

I came quite close to the summit last year via the south ridge with Tim LeCouteur, but we were rained off in a squall. The south side is an ugly approach with probably the worst bushwhack I have yet done. My first recon with Erika Tarris ended up in bad alder, and after I failed with Tim, there was also a solo attempt that ended with a good soul searching kick-in-the-head amid the same bad bush.

2003 would be the year of the north side approaches. In July, Steve Harng suggested a go from the Ault Creek side and we found a nice approach and bivy sites on pumice benches below the peak. Half an hour after stopping, a storm began that drove us into our bivy sacks for twelve straight hours of rain. Steve suggested "Purple and Yellow Haze" as a possible route name to commemorate the insanity of spending so much time in our respectively coloured bivy sacks.

I went back a few weeks later, again with Tim, and we camped right below the tower in the beautiful moraines at the end of the perfect lake at the head of the creek. You of course know what happens next! Another evening and night of hard rain drove us soddenly back to the truck in the morning. Both of these trips had involved forecasts of 10% chance of showers. I just wanted it to be over!

With a sunny high pressure thing lingering late in September, Steve again suggested a go at this one, and Drew joined us in our hunt for the...

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