From below the bergshrund three (60m) pitches of simul-climbing followed by three belayed pitches led to the base of the serac band which was tackled on the far left next to the rock. A 50m pitch (WI3) followed by 20m (WI4-). Another two pitches moving together above the crux led to the summit ridge and the end of the technical difficulties. The summit itself is another half hour along the ridge.
The party took four hours to approach from a base camp just above the treeline and eight hours from bergshrund to summit. The lengthy descent took just under seven hours to base camp.
Of course these are just numbers. The climbing, great weather and company combined to give this route a huge fun factor. [photo]wnstn06.jpg[caption]The couloir from below[/photo]
[photo]wnstn09.jpg[caption]Low in the couloir[/photo]
[photo]wnstn10.jpg[caption]Approaching the seracs[/photo]
[photo]wnstn11.jpg[caption]Climbing the serac... To see the full trip report you must login as a paid member. Use the Login Page. (message p3)
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