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Mount Queen Mary - S Ridge
Timestamp Free: 2019.07.16 - 04:38:38
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Saint Elias Mountains / Icefield Ranges
  (7 days)
Report describes an 11 km route on Mount Queen Mary in the Yukon.
Mount Queen Mary had previously been climbed only from the N and via the W Ridge. From our base camp to the S there was no direct route, but we decided to attempt the mountain via the NW Ridge of Peak 35-44 (3118m) and the winding ridge leading from Peak 35-44 (3118m) to the summit of Mt. Queen Mary, a total of 11km of route. Anticipating poor snow conditions we set off with 7 days' food and fuel.

On the first day we reached the col N of Peak 35-44, having enjoyed mainly superb snow conditions apart from the 'cheesy' N slopes of 35-44 itself. The following day we made the steep ascent to a forepeak at 3440m, along some level ridge and up a further rise to a superbly open campsite on a serac at c.3560m. On the third day we reached the rounded summit in 1.5 hours.

The morning inversion turned into a storm as we descended to the col by Peak 35-44. After moderate overnight snowfall and in poor visibility we continued over Peak 35-44 and reversed our route of ascent. Several times we were forced to sit out whiteout conditions, and on two occasions we lost the route. Our rapid ascent had been fortuitous since the weather took a further two days to clear.

Note: These waypoints were not taken in the field. They are provided to show the approximate line of the...

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