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Dunn Peak - North Face Route Description
Timestamp Free: 2020.09.23 - 06:46:55
Ranges: North America Ranges / Columbia Mountains / Monashee Mountains / Shuswap Highland
  (2 days) Steep, 8 rope lengths of 45 degree ice.
Detailed description of exactly how to approach and climb Dunn Peak.
Dunn peak is located about 60km north of Kamloops. There are a couple of ways to get to it but they are all rather long. The only approach I've used is the Harper creek forest service road. To go this way drive north of Kamloops to Barriere, then start following the road to East Barriere lake. Turn off on the North Barriere lake road, and then on to the Harper creek road. All of these roads are signed. Follow the Harper creek road for approx. 15km, then follow a spur road left across the creek (all this shows well on map 82 M/5).

From the parking area at the end of the spur road look south and you should see a sign marking the trail head. The trail is very hard to follow in the beginning, but basically heads west over a low pass, then turns south along the creek heading to the peak. It is about a 10km walk, and there is a perfect bivy spot right near the end. From the bivy spot scramble through a boulder field up to the base of the obvious snow/ice face. Head straight up the snow/ice taking the usual precautions for rockfall etc. The route is only about 45 degrees at its steepest (if anyone has done it, or does it and disagrees let me know) and is maybe 6-8 rope lengths. The snow/ice ends in a narrow notch between the two summits, the higher summit is to the climbers left and is only a short third class scramble from the notch. The summit is rather large and flat with some type of repeater station on the top as well as the usual garbage and crap that accumulates around these things.

The descent is to scramble back down to the notch and up to the top of the lower west peak. From here scramble down the NW ridge staying as close to the crest overlooking the North face as possible. The down climbing is no worse than class 3 but the rock is pretty poor in spots so...

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