We blazed up the trail to the cabin in about 1 1/2 hours under clear skies, and as we began the long pull up the Anniversary Glacier we began to get some crazy ideas of bagging both Matier and Joffre in the same day. A brief struggle with some isothermal avalanche debris led onto the glacier proper, where trailbreaking was light, and was made even lighter by following the tracks of two snowshoeing snowborders, who were wallowing their way up the glacier with heavy-looking packs and no poles (!!) There were no crevasses of any sort visable, and higher up the bergschrund was barly a ripple.
We skied about 500 feet above the col at the top of the glacier and parked the skis, and proceeded to wade through loose, thigh-deep snow up to the northeast ridge. Once on the ridge, the snow turned to firm windpack, which proved very easy to climb - once again, the great conditions were making a mockery of all our climbing gear (rope, crampons, etc) that we decided to take all the way to the summit and back, "just in case".
After picking our way along the summit ridge in deep loose snow, at approx 2:30 we stood on the summit and took in the million dollar view. Even my old foe Snowspider seemed much diminished from our thin perch. As we did some lounging in the sun, we were suddenly buzzed by a glider out of Pemberton. The pilot came... To see the full trip report you must login as a paid member. Use the Login Page. (message p3)
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