Bivouac.com   Trip Page   Home     Help   Index     Login
Cerberus Mountain Climbing Route on Skis
Timestamp Free: 2020.07.03 - 16:49:24
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges
  (1 days)
Participants: Don Funk
Difficulty: 4: Moderate, with glacier travel in which crevasses must be navigated.
A detailed description of 1 day route to climb Cerberus on skis from a camp on Monarch Icefield.
Below is a description of a ski route to the summit of Cerberus Mountain from a high camp on the upper Monarch Icefield. I've used grid references for ease in identifying waypoints on the map, as the 1:50000 Topo map only displays the grid lines. The map used is 92M/16 (Sheemahant River).

From a camp to the north of Erehwon Mountain at GR 962612 (elev. 8200 feet), ascend the low indistinct ridge north of Erehwon by traversing to the southwest. On the west side of this ridge, drop down slightly to the Erehwon/Chili Tower col at GR 952600 (elev. 8300 feet). From here drop down a moderately steep glacier to the south, avoiding crevasses along the way, as there are a few. An alternative to this route would be to traverse around the east and south sides of Erehwon Mountain. This route would be longer, although, is less steep having fewer crevasses. I had no problem skiing down from the Erehwon/Chili Tower col.

Once down on the flatter icefield, head in a SSE direction to the base of a moderately steep glacier at GR 947575 (elev. 7400 feet). This glacier runs down from the col between Cerberus Mountain and Basin Peak. Climb this slope in a southwesterly direction, navigating through a crevassed area just before the Cerberus/Basin Peak col. From the col at GR 941569 (elev. 7900 feet), begin an ascending clockwise traverse around the south and west sides of Cerberus Mountain. There is a snowramp heading up and around the south ridge passing GR 935568 (elev. ~8100 feet). A safer alternative to this would be to swing around wide to the south (dropping down a few hundred feet) staying clear of the steep, rocky south ridge of Cerberus in case of high avalanche hazard. From below the south ridge begin traversing over to the northwest,...

To see the full trip report you must login as a paid member. Use the Login Page. (message p3)