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Bustle Tower Climbing Routes
Timestamp Free: 2018.11.21 - 03:56:42
Ranges: MacKenzie Ranges / Selwyn Mountains / Logan Mountains / Cirque of the Unclimbables Group
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Don't Get Piggy (V, 5.12a). FA: Jonathan Copp and Tim O'Neill, 2001

West Ridge (IV 5.9 A1) *. Steep snow to unstable gully, escape to right. Then all pitches are on the ridge or to the left, except for a 10' tension traverse to the right two-thirds of the way up. Crux 5.9 overhang in a dihedral gains a knife-edged ridge. Two pitches on the ridge to a false summit tower; true summit a bit further, with windy bivouac cave below it. Descent: rappel long icy gully. FA: Joe Bridges, Harthon (Sandy) Bill, Galen Rowell, 1973

"Club International" (V, 5.11b or 5.10+, A2). Route topo drawn on a girly magazine of the same name found in a waterproof case at the bivy site in Fairy Meadows. 12 pitches. Follows left facing dihedrals left (SW) of route 20, over a big drippy roof on pitch 6 (bring extra rope to fix this for the descent). All but 60 m of route done free. [Topo in 1998 CAJ] FA: Sean Isaac and Andreas Taylor, 1997. FFA: Jonathan Copp and Tim O'Neill, 2001.

SE Face (VI 5.10 A1) *, 2000'. Left Southeast Dihedral route. Climbs great dihedrals, avoiding the last (overhanging, left-leaning) one by traversing to the right to join exit gullies two pitches from the top. All but 200' freed in 1980 by Bill Wylie and Mark Wilford. 17 pitches. Warning: this route may have been affected by a massive rockfall on this face in the 1990's. FA: Jaques Collar, Jacques Ramouillet, Renzo Lorenzi, 1977

"Beppin" (beautiful Women in Japanese) (V 5.10a A3-). Follow the leftmost of three left leaning dihedrals, eventually reaching a bowl right of a major pillar. 13 pitches. [Gakujin #629] FA: Shogo Kada, Makoto Kuroda; July 5-9, 1999

Southeast Dihedral (V 5.8 A2) 1320'. FA: Ernst Machacek, Gustav Ammerer, 1977

Bustle Tower Sub-Peak - SW Face III 5.9 A1, 660'. The exact location of...

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