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Mount Stanley
Timestamp Free: 2020.11.25 - 00:38:36
Ranges: North America Ranges / Rocky Mountains / Canadian Rockies / Continental Ranges / Park Ranges
  (2 days)     Elevation Gain: 1655m
Participants: Hans Braun; Pat Finnerty; Istvan Hernadi; Ray Hogan; Dave Hough; Christine Kuzenko; Deb Miskiw; Orvel Miskiw; Jon Shaw
Difficulty: 4: Intermediate
A moderate mixed mountain climb with crampons, rope, rappelling, and camping.
I don't like to shy away from leading a Club trip that I have never done before; in fact, I prefer it, because participants on Club trips can learn more about mountaineering from a leader who has to make decisions and possibly mistakes, along the way, than from one who knows the whole thing like the back of his hand and so never reveals anything about the process of decision-making which is continually going on in exploratory mountaineering. This was such a climbing trip, and it was complex enough to offer much in the teaching/learning department, and it went well.

The climb of Stanley Peak from the Castle-Radium highway is a popular one with Calgary mountaineers, but I had never even started out for it before this trip. It was an opportunity to combine a new climb for myself with making a contribution to the ACC Calgary Section. After the usual extensive churning of the participant list, almost to the last moment before departure, it settled down into two groups: six to tackle the exciting mixed terrain of the Northwest Ridge, and three to take the north slopes head-on, not wanting to take off their crampons until the descent.

The larger group of us (minus Istvan, who was to meet us at the trail- head) left Calgary about noon on Saturday. With Istvan in tow, we enjoyed a very pleasant hike up the Stanley Glacier trail. We paused briefly at the valley-head bivvy area before taking a sharp right turn above the lower cliff band, and continued up rock steps for a bit under an hour, then camped on a good ledge system, with plenty of daylight left, thanks largely to Pat and Jon for their routefinding advice based on past experience.

The north-face team (Dave, Hans, and Ray) were expected to be a couple of hours behind us, as one of them needed most of the day to...

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