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Mt Harvey N Face - conditions April 99
Timestamp Free: 2021.01.25 - 23:13:38
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Britannia Range
  (1 days)
Participants: Mike Buda; Drew Brayshaw
The Ramp route om Mount Harvey (1703 m) turned out fairly easy.
Mike Buda and I did the N. face ramp on Harvey on 1999.04.15. We found conditions to be pretty good, though I've had better. The walking in was fairly good, most post holes were only ankle-deep and the crust was fairly hard. On the slopes below the bottom of the ramp the difference between breaking through the crust and not breaking through seemed to be the weight of the rope - Mike kept breaking through and I didn't, nicely enough. There were some old ski tracks here and what might have been the remnant boot prints of a climbing party a week or so previously.

The ramp had excellent snow conditions, nice firm neve, albeit exposed only in the spindrift runnels, so that one was forced to climb in a constant barrage of tiny ice cystals and pebbles. Luckily nothing big was coming down.

We had been in a month previously to attempt a winter ascent of the "Great Gut" but turned back after taking hours to break trail to the base only to find high avalanche danger on the wall. Now, a month later, the top chimney of the Gut was missing ice and looking quite hideous. The Cuthbert/Rowat was formed up with white ice, but melting, and looked like it would have given a 6-pitch WI 3-4 earlier in the season. The Pup Buttress also had its' chimneys packed full of ice, and the snow line was up over the level of the first belay on the route - that's a lot of snow, alright! All 3 of these lines are apparently still waiting for their FWA's, despite a few strong attempts.

The Ramp route, on this occasion, turned out fairly easy. The thick snowpack is just starting to creep and develop tension cracks, and there is no exposed rock or ice, so it was easy going to the top of the shoulder. Here we roped up because the snow became rather soft, and leapfrogged belays across to the...

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