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Bugaboo Spire NE Ridge and Summit Ridge Traverse
Timestamp Free: 2019.08.24 - 01:04:54
Ranges: North America Ranges / Columbia Mountains / Purcell Mountains / Bugaboo Group
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This is an outstanding classic alpine rock climb. The description of the traverse from N to S summits in the Randall & Bensen guidebook seemed misleading to me, so I've written an alternative description.

Get onto the Crescent Glacier and gain the highest point below the Bugaboo-Crescent col. Easy climbing trending slightly R, on reasonably solid rock, leads to the col and from here it is an easy scramble to the ``rope up ledge'. From here, good climbing on excellent rock gives 5 pitches of IV/IV+ [UIAA grades, my protest against the YDS], which are followed by easier ground (III), finishing before a false summit with very obvious in situ anchors. Abseil about 10-15m to a ledge on the E face, traverse along (S) and then scramble up and back N a little to reach the true summit. 3-6 hours from Applebea.

To reach the S summit, follow the ridge crest down to a col (II/III) and then walk along a ledge formed by a crack in a low angled slab on the W face to a very prominent notch. There was an in situ rope leading part way down on the other (E) side; abseil or downclimb (hard!). From here it is a short walk along ledges on the E face to reach prominent abseil anchors at the top of the Grande Gendarme on the Kain route, which is the descent route. The S summit is reached from this point by walking back along a ledge on the W face and climbing a system of corners and cracks (III). 0.5-1 hour from the N...

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