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Uto Peak - Southwest ridge
Timestamp Free: 2020.09.23 - 07:17:02
Ranges: North America Ranges / Columbia Mountains / Selkirk Mountains / Duncan Ranges / Sir Donald Range
Follow the Sir Donald trail to its end below the snout of the Vaux glacier. From here follow a climber's trail northward up the side of a large moraine. Follow the obvious trail on the crest of the moraine east towards the massive west face of Mt Sir Donald. The trail then heads north traversing the meadows below Sir Donald. Continue along the trail until the Uto-Sir Donald col is reached. Early in the season some large patches of snow need to be traversed to get to the col, an ice axe may be handy as a slip would result in a fast ride with a very messy stop in the rocks. From the north end of the col cross a small notch to get on the bottom of the SW ridge of Uto. Follow the ridge as close to the crest as possible, but generally moving slightly left on to the west face when difficulties present themselves. The short sections of steeper climbing are regularily broken by large platforms along the way. The climbing is mostly 3rd and 4th class but with a number of short lower 5th class sections. The rock is exceptionally firm and the climbing is very enjoyable. The summit also offers an excellent view of the North face and Northwest ridge routes on Mt Sir...
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