Trip Page   Home     Help   Index     Login
Edith - South Ridge of South Peak (5.4)
Timestamp Free: 2020.05.26 - 23:54:45
Ranges: North America Ranges / Rocky Mountains / Canadian Rockies / Continental Ranges / Front Ranges / Sawback Range
  (1 days)
Participants: Ian Hunt, Tom Back 5.4
S ridge of S summit Mt. Edith. Rock to 5.4. Fine views esp. of Mt Louis to the N. Feels like a long way in for a short "climb".
The climb itself starts in a gully that is not obvious until you are directly below it. Stone fall can be a problem on windy days.Protection can be difficult to find in the gully.

Follow the Edith pass trail to the first log bridge (creek maybe dry). Continue along the trail for another .5 km until the next small log bridge, then look for a faint trial on L heading up an avalanche path. This path climbs from the valley floor around a couple of small cliff bands (generally on the R). Caution there are some false trails. After crossing a scree bay, look for a trail heading R that will take you uptwards the base of the main cliffs, then follow the trail L round a corner towards the S ridge until the deep gully appears. Scramble into the base of the gully. Climb the gully (about 4 pitches) until it reaches the ridge, follow the ridge R over a few steps (can be avoided on the L), past bolts (old rescue site) to the final summit block that is split by 2 short grooves. The R groove leads to a small gully then up scree to boulders and an obvious cairned slot (this is the start of the descent route). From here, scramble the boulders to the top (5+ mins).

Descent: retrace your steps down the ridge to the slot. Scramble down into the slot and out the other side. Follow the trails down/across the scree trying to head more W rather than down. Head for a cairn on a little ridge, and from there look W for a prominent archway formed by a chockstone in a crack between two rock pillars. This marks the top of a tunnel that leads easily to the scree below. Descend scree heading to the trail on the R side then down to the main Cory pass hiking...

To see the full trip report you must login as a paid member. Use the Login Page. (message p3)