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Fryatt - History and Two Routes
Timestamp Free: 2019.03.25 - 04:22:05
Ranges: North America Ranges / Rocky Mountains / Canadian Rockies / Continental Ranges / Park Ranges
  (3 days)
Participants: Reg Bonney, Rick Collier Climbing to 5.4
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Mt. Fryatt (11,026'/3361m)

This is a remote and exciting peak, taking at least one day for an approach, a day to climb, and a day to exit. Although with some luck and good weather, one might ascend Fryatt without rope or pro, the possibilities for route-finding problems that could entail technical climbing are extensive; as well, one is likely to want to rappel the upper sections of the ascent rather than scramble them: Fryatt is a very enjoyable climb in magnificent surroundings, but it is not an ascent to be taken lightly. Although not as high, it is comparable to but slightly easier than -- the standard route on Assiniboine.

According to Boles, et al., in Place Names of the Canadian Alps, this peak was named by the Alberta Boundary Commission for Charles Algernon Fryatt (1872-1916), who was the captain of the unarmed Belgian merchant ship, Brussels (which is the name of the very difficult 10,370' peak SE across the Fryatt Creek valley from Mt. Fryatt). Fryatt had used the Brussels to help evacuate many Allied troops from France . . . during the First World War (Pole, Canadian Rockies SuperGuide). His ship was captured by German U-boats and, according to navel records, Fryatt was accused of having attempted to ram a German submarine. Apparently, he was somewhat successful in this maneuver, a maneuver which violated the yet-lingering code of military chivalry that had informed most of the 19th century. Such a tactic was viewed as being exceedingly "unsportsmanlike". For his audacity in rescuing Allied troops and for his breach of military etiquette, Fryatt was summarily shot by his captors.

Mt. Fryatt was first ascended by the redoubtable J.W.A. Hickson, along with H. Palmer and the guide, Hans Fuhrer, in July of 1926. Their ascent up the SW face is now the...

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