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Allen - Approach and Climb
Timestamp Free: 2020.01.23 - 22:36:20
Ranges: North America Ranges / Rocky Mountains / Canadian Rockies / Continental Ranges / Park Ranges
  (3 days)
Participants: Reg Bonney, David Shadbolt, Rick Collier scramble
A backdoor ascent of Allen and Tuzo
This peak, along with its neighbour Mt. Tuzo, are two of the peaks in the Valley of the Ten Peaks, S and W of Moraine Lake, that are ascended most rarely. Yet, both are quite high and afford spectacular views of the surrounding area. Allen itself is, when it is in fact climbed, ascended from Moraine Lake via one of the access routes up to the Fay Glacier, and may be done in a long day; there is, however, an ACC hut near Mt. Little (Colgan) that can be used if more of the peaks in the area are to be ascended. Tuzo is accessible in a long day from the hut via Mt. Allen.

Our route, however, was -- in our estimation -- a purer ascent and more open to the wilderness experience. On July 19, 1986, Reg Bonney, David Shadbolt, and Rick Collier started out relatively early in the morning to hike up what is known at the trailhead as Marble Canyon, Tokuum Creek in its mid-section, and Prospector's Valley at its NW end. The trailhead can be found on 82 N/1 (Mount Goodsir) at GR 613707. It continues at a very slight incline for 13.6 km to the junction of the valley trail with the one leading to Kaufmann Lake (82 N/8 [Lake Louise] GR 530788). Another 1.5 km and 800' of elevation gain brings one to the Lake at 6800' (See Mount Tuzo from Kaufmann Lake). For those readers who wish to have more information about this part of the climb, I would refer you to Graeme Pole's book "Classic Hikes in the Canadian Rockies"(229-32). Suffice it to say that one can motor along this trail at a fairly good pace (except for the last bit) and arrive at the lake in 5-6 hours.

Our route took us around the E side of the lake and up into the barren, scree cirque; we bivied at about 7400' (GR 535814). The surroundings here are magnificent, with the walls and towers of Allen, Tuzo, and...

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