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Saint Bride - A Climbing History
Timestamp Free: 2017.12.13 - 15:38:03
Ranges: North America Ranges / Rocky Mountains / Canadian Rockies / Continental Ranges / Front Ranges / Slate Range
  (3 days)
Participants: Bob Saunders, John Holmes, Rick Collier
Difficulty: 5: Technical climbing to 5.11; long approach; difficult route-finding
The following CAJ article recounts the history of climbs of St. Bride, including several attempts in recent history made by the Old Goats
Mt. St. Bride (10,867'/3312m):

Although the following article was originally published in the "Canadian Alpine Journal" for 2000 (125-28), it contained a number of omissions and errors. I am posting a revised version of this essay to the Bivouac Mountaineering Encyclopaedia in the hope that such a move will help to amend these editing problems, as well as provide a larger audience with access to this material. Unfortunately, much of the formatting in the original may be lost in this electronic translation. In any case, I imagine that the following account will allow readers to understand the history of this peak, to find adequate details about the approach, and to determine the facts necessary for future ascents.

Let me add a note about maps since that information has been omitted from the essay. The approach and ascent of St. Bride requires at least three maps: 82 N/8 (Lake Louise), 82 O/5 (Castle Mountain), and 82 O/12 (Barrier Mountain). 82 N/8 provides the details for the first two-thirds of the approach march from the Fish Creek parking area to the Baker Creek meadows just E of Baker lake; 82 O/5 is necessary only for its NW section, which shows the route up Tilted valley (just N of Tilted Mountain), over Lychnis Pass at GR 711048, and over the first stretch of the Douglas Glacier; 82 O/12 is used only for its SW section, where St. Bride itself is located.
 Mt. St. Bride: A Narrative and Descriptive History

1998: There was blood, lots of it, dribbled in patches all over the wall. And if Reg hadn't been strong as a damned horse or if the rockfall had cut our ropes -- if somehow we'd been trapped in that water-worn slot, that terrible dark prison, praying for rescue -- well, no one would have found us there, not ever (Climbing Log, August 2,...

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