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Eon Mountain - Three Major Routes
Timestamp Free: 2019.08.24 - 15:09:01
Ranges: North America Ranges / Rocky Mountains / Canadian Rockies / Continental Ranges / Park Ranges
  (2 days)
Participants: Rick Collier, Reg Bonney, Bill Hurst
Difficulty: 4: Moderate scrambling
This article reviews the early history of this important and high peak, and details an ascent of what has now become the standard route

First Ascent Route
Eon was first ascended by Dr. Winthrop Ellsworth Stone (1861-1921) in July of 1921. Stone was the president of Purdue University and brother of a yet-to-be US Supreme Court justice, Harlan Stone. That the date of Eon's first ascent and of Stone's demise are the same is no coincidence -- herein lies the drama, mentioned earlier, that surrounds this peak. While at an ACC camp at Marvel Pass, Dr. Stone and his wife Margaret determined that they would attempt the first ascent of Eon. However, the approach to Eon from Marvel Pass is lengthy and unpleasant, and must certainly have taken its toll on the two adventurers. As well, the ascent up the S face and the SE ridge is far more complex and demanding than what is now the standard route. Apparently the couple reached the summit of the peak via "a wide flaring chimney with sloping and unstable slabs" (Guidebook: 161). On their descent of this chimney, Dr. Stone lost his footing and plunged to his death far below. His wife used their rope to descend past the chimney, but in doing so had used the rope as a single-strand rappel.
  As a result, when she found that her further descent was blocked by additional technical difficulties, she was trapped, one end of the rope being attached to the rock far above her and, since she had jumped the final few feet to her perch, the other end being beyond her reach. She was ill-equipped in regard to bivouac equipment and warm clothes for a night out on the side of a mountain at over 10,000'. Even worse, it took the ACC officials at the camp considerable time to realize that the couple must be in trouble, to decide what to do, and to assemble a rescue team. It was, in fact, eight days before Rudolph Aemmer managed to reach Mrs. Stone on her precarious...

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