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Noseeum - South Slopes - Traverse
Timestamp Free: 2020.02.22 - 04:32:41
Ranges: North America Ranges / Rocky Mountains / Canadian Rockies / Continental Ranges / Front Ranges / Murchison Group
  (1 days)
Participant: Graeme Pole, 1986.07.30

Ascend along Noseeum Creek from the Icefields Parkway (51:37.3-116:19.0). Scale the headwall that leads into the hanging valley by climbing (fourth class) to the right (south) of the waterfalls. If you only want to ascend Noseeum Peak itself, pass "Noseeum Lake" (51:38.3- 116:17.1) on its south side, then swing northeast. Sidehill on steep screes and boulders to beneath the summit. A steep gully leads up to just west of the summit, from where you can walk to the top (51:39.3-116:17.4). I found the first ascent record on my ascent - Cromwell and Engelhard. If memory serves correctly, it was left in 1943.

If you want to make an enjoyable traverse of the horseshoe of peaks in this valley, keep south of Noseeum Lake and head for the peak at 51:36.9-116:15.7. From there, follow the chain of peaklets north to Noseeum Peak - lots of up and down but nothing difficult. From Noseeum Peak you can carry on southwest and then south to the culmination of the horseshoe at 51:38.4-116:18.3. There is one fourth-class move involved on this section. Steep scree chutes lead down from near the end of the horseshoe, southeast to the floor of the hanging valley west of "Noseeum Lake," from where you can rejoin the ascent route.

You can also drop into the Mosquito Creek valley from the ridge southwest of Noseeum Peak, at 51:38.9-116:17.9. The routefinding requires care in the initial stages, but, if you keep clear of the cliffs, you should find yourself in the avalanche chute that plunges to Mosquito Creek. Ford the creek (moderate) to the Mosquito Creek hiking trail....

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