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Deltaform Mountain
Timestamp Free: 2019.04.26 - 06:06:22
Ranges: North America Ranges / Rocky Mountains / Canadian Rockies / Continental Ranges / Park Ranges
  (2 days)
Participants: Rick Collier; Bob Saunders; John Northwood; Len Potter
Difficulty: 5: Steep snow and ice on Neptuak; serious scrambling to 5.3 on upper sections of Deltaform; 5.5 rock out of the notch
Deltaform (Saknowa), peak eight in the Valley of the Ten Peaks, is the only one to exceed 11,000'; it is a spectacular mountain and offers a variety of mountaineering problems and challenges.
Deltaform, peak eight in the Valley of the Ten Peaks and also known by its First Nations' name of Saknowa, is the only one of this group to exceed 11,000'. It is a spectacular mountain and offers a variety of mountaineering problems and challenges. It was first climbed in July of 1903 by A. Eggers and H.C. Parker, who were guided by the Kaufmann brothers; their route took the S ridge from Prospector's Valley, but it is unlikely that this approach is followed today with any frequency. The standard route now is #2 in the Guidebook (the NW ridge).

Although it is perhaps possible to climb this peak and return to one's car in a day, it would be a very long day; it is more reasonable to assume that one will have to bivouac once and perhaps twice. The best spot for a pre-ascent bivy is the meadow W of Eiffel Lake and S of Wenkchemna Pass; however, one should recognize that the chances of getting a bivouac permit from the Parks Service for this area are remote. The other essential piece of information necessary for an ascent of the true summit of Deltaform is that two 50m ropes must be carried.

One of the reasons the ascent of Deltaform is so time-consuming is that most parties combine summiting this peak with a climb of its neighbour Neptuak Mt. This is reasonable, of course, because the standard route up Deltaform goes either around Neptuak or over it. However, the first mistake that parties make in climbing Deltaform is to assume that they can access Neptuak from Wenkchemna Pass -- but anyone who has crossed this pass will recall that to the S rise sheer and difficult cliffs that virtually ring Neptuak and are sufficient to delay or prolong any attempt from this spot. What is required is an ascent from the meadows mentioned earlier up talus to a snow slope that rises...

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