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King Edward - South and Southeast Slopes
Timestamp Free: 2021.01.25 - 22:07:47
Ranges: North America Ranges / Rocky Mountains / Canadian Rockies / Continental Ranges / Park Ranges / Columbia Icefield
  (3 days)
Participants: Reg Bonney, Rick Collier
Glacier travel, some modest climbing, both on rock and ice, and a fine finish is a remote area characterized this ascent
Mount King Edward (11,400'/3490m) is situated in one of the more remote areas in the Rockies, and yet is remarkably simple to get to and relatively easy of ascent (See King Edward). It is located at GR 646775 on 83 C/4 (Clemenceau Icefield), although the name on the map is affixed to the northerly (lower) of two summits. It is likely that there is a difference of only a few feet between the S and the N summits, but the contours on the map, plus a careful visual inspection from the S summit and mountaineering tradition strongly suggest that the N summit is a few feet lower; a traverse between the two is possible, but the kilometer or so separating them is replete with towers and notches and so would require (in my best estimate) three to four hours for a return trip.

According to Boles, et al., this peak was named by Mary Schaffer in honour of Edward VII (1841-1910). He ascended to the British throne in 1901 after his mother, Queen Victoria, had ruled for almost three-quarters of a century. King Edward was first climbed in August of 1921 by J.W.A. Hickson, H. Palmer, and the guide Conrad Kain via the Athabaska Valley and the tongue of the Columbia Icefield that drops down N into that valley. This long approach, however, is no longer necessary, although in general the ascent up the massif is today the same as that used by Hickson and his partners.

Approach: It is a long drive to the staging area for King Edward, no matter where you start from - some 5-6 hours - and a good deal of it is on logging roads. Essentially it is the same approach as that described by Alan Kane for Mt. Bryce. However, instead of heading up Rice Brook, one should continue on up the Bush River another 5 km or so to a point just past the unnamed drainage descending S from Mt....

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