Details: From Highway 99 just north of Brackendale turn left onto Squamish Valley Road. Around Km 9 from Squamish take a side road across Indian land to cross the Squamish River (permission to cross the land should be obtained from the band). Alternatively, use a boat service to access the west side of the river. Climb to the Tantalus Hut at Lake Lovely Water via the trail that begins at the cable crossing. From the hut, follow a sketchy trail around the north side of Lake Lovely Water to Lambda Lake. Once at Lambda Lake, follow the trail around the south side of the Lake and climb west along the ridge separating it from Lake Lovely Water. The trail ends before the gravel flats are reached in the Serratus-Ionia basin (el. ~1400m GR796E143N on 92G/14). The flats have been referred to as the Russian Army Camp.
A ring of cliffs encircles the basin from north to southeast. Climb through the cliff band on climber's right via a loose gully. This is the easiest way to climb above the cliff band. It also receives rockfall and avalanche debris from the south-facing slopes above. From the top of the cliff band, traverse ENE across the Serratus-Ionia glacier to the Serratus-Ionia col (el. ~2025m).
From the col, it is easiest to descend west to ~1900m before climbing up to the Jim Haberl Hut and the decaying Red Tit hut at ~2010m GR778156 on 92G/14.
It is also possible to reach the Serratus-Ionia basin by skiing or boating across the lake. The lake may be icebound until mid-July. Both huts are situated in the vicinity of the Serratus-Dione col.... To see the full trip report you must login as a paid member. Use the Login Page. (message p3)
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