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Mount Steele - Southeast Ridge
Timestamp Free: 2017.10.17 - 15:34:03
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Saint Elias Mountains / Icefield Ranges
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This was sixth part of "Millar's High Life Traverse". After climbing the N ridge of Steele, we descended the SE Ridge. But I can describe it in reverse (ascent).

From the summit of SE Steele (4300m [421 698]) ski down to a big col at 3860m [406 706]. From there, ski W to another col (a good high camp) at 4020m [392 718].

Begin your summit day by dodging a snow nipple at 4300m [384 722] by an upward traverse straight W and just missing the peak on the S side. Climb straight up the ridge until forced off the ridge and onto the adjacent face on the left or right. We were on the right one, which involves about 700m of continuous 40-50 degree snow climbing up slopes and between ice cliffs. The face is extremely exposed as it drops 2200m down to the glacier below. Near the summit (4750m) angle right to avoid the final steep headwall and gain the flats to the N of the summit. Continue easily back S to the summit. Summit day would be a good 10-20 hour day, I suspect. It took us 9 hours to descend.

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