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Wood - East Face
Timestamp Free: 2017.12.11 - 04:17:06
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Saint Elias Mountains / Icefield Ranges
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The climb was the first part of "Millar's High Life" Traverse. The East Face is largely a ski. I remember only 4 times we had to kick steps. Camps can be placed nearly anywhere. We did the climb in 6 days from Trapridge BC in an unacclimitized state and had one storm day. Our camps were at 2500m, 3000m, 3800m, and 4200m.

Beginning at Trapridge Glaciology Base Camp [363 886], 2340m, (not accesable by ski plane), hike WSW to the end of the rocky ridge at 2730m. Ski straight W into a basin. Next, gain one of two passes and descend to the Hodgson Glacier. Pass 1 [329 878] is easily-gained but involves more elevation drop over very loose rubble to gain Hodgson. More crevasses must be negotiated once reaching the Hodgson as well. Pass 2 [323 884] is also easily reached but is extremely steep and rotten to descend to Hodgson. Without snow, a rappel is necessary.

Now at 3000m on the Hodgson Glacier, ski eastwards towards Wood. The first of two icefalls to be negotiated is at 3200m and can be skirted on the left side in a depression (about [310 880]). Some steep snow climbing in and around ice towers. Straight-forward skiing brings you to the second icefall at 3700m which is crossed by traversing N below it and weaving between seracs around [295 884]. More skiing leads to the last place to camp at 4200m [277 888]. The summit is gained by the faint ENE ridge. Summit: 4840m [263 887].

We descended to the high Wood/Macauley col (4220m [260 873]). From the summit, descend the SW ridge, avoiding ice cliffs, to a high shoulder at 4700m. Cross back E onto the S face and begin an angled descent of this highly loaded bowl (BEWARE!!). Plunge step down to the col. {{next:...

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