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Castle Towers - West Ridge
Timestamp Free: 2020.08.08 - 15:06:50
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Garibaldi Ranges
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Normal route but not the easiest.
Normal route but not the easiest.
 Approach from Gentian Pass via Polemonium Ridge.
 From the col between Polemonium Ridge and the toe of the West Ridge at GR033318 on 92 G/15 walk up easy rock to gain the ridge proper. The easiest line to gain the ridge is up a weakness on the south side of the ridge toe, to the left of cliffs. If you missed it, you will probably end up scrambling easy rock to the right of the cliffs (not difficult).
 Continue walking to the summit of the ridge using easy snow or easy rock. This summit is also known as the West Peak. In order to reach the main summit (Middle Peak), descend the gap separating the two peaks. The descent is the crux of the route.
 The key to the descent of the gap is to head towards its northern aspect overlooking the Northwest Face of Castle Towers. A series of very loose ledges allow walking down and getting fairly close to the bottom of the notch. The last few meters have to be downclimbed. Holds are plentiful but good ones need to be carefully selected because of a number of unstable rocks. This descent is impressive because of its poor rock and airy location but technical difficulty is minimal and exposure moderate.
 Scramble up the opposite side of the gap to just below the summit tower and traverse the top of the Northwest Face along the base of the tower. Scramble up the tower by its eastern aspect.
 Descend the same route....

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