First off is the "Crater Rim" route. This variation is described in the Culbert Alpine guide, and the description was cut back in Fairley's, making it poorly described. It is a class 3-4 variation on the standard hiking route up Crown. From the pass, hike the trail until the slabs are reached. Instead of crossing them on the trail, climb straight up for about 6 pitches of 4th class (up to easy 5th - like the top of Banana Peel) climbing, then continue along the Crater Rim arete to the top.
The rest of the routes are all climbs out of the Hanes Valley. The "WidowMaker Arete" is described in Fairley's guide. Recent ascents have indicated climbing up to 5.9, not the 4th and 5th indicated in the guide. To the left of the Widowmaker is a 10 pitch 5.9 A2, "The Barrier", reported in the 1975 CAJ and not included in the Fairley guide. Left of this, the Crater Couloir can be climbed to the base of the Camel when snow-filled (often high avalanche hazard) or scrambled in late summer. To see the full trip report you must login as a paid member. Use the Login Page. (message p3)
Around on the east side of the North Peak are two routes (that I know of): the E. face of the north peak was climbed in the late 80's by Andy And Muriel Pacheco, slab climbing up to 5.8 and about 6-8 pitches. Recently, a route up to the Camel's neck on the N. side of the Camel was climbed by Mark Grist and Vance Culbert - 6 pitches up to 5.8 with offwidth - this may be an old route of Tom Fyles'?
For more on the climbs on the N. side...
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