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A Climb of Whitegoat 1
Timestamp Free: 2019.12.07 - 00:06:34
Ranges: North America Ranges / Rocky Mountains / Canadian Rockies / Continental Ranges / Front Ranges
  (3 days)     Elevation Gain: 1700m
Participants: Frank Campbell, Orvel Miskiw
Difficulty: 5: Grade 5.7
A description of the interesting climb of the southwest Whitegoat Peak ("Peak 1", or "Troll")
[photo]wgone_3rr.jpg [caption]Whitegoat 1 (3084m) From the Cline/Whitegoats Col[/photo]

From a camping area in the scenic boulder meadows of upper Thompson Creek, cross the Cline-Resolute col and the upper Cline Glacier, then scramble left up a gully through a 300-ft cliff band to reach the Cline-Whitegoat 1 col.

Refer to photo at right: Follow a long and tiresome scree traverse northwestward to the far ridge of Whitegoat 1 (Troll Peak). This ridge peters out in a series of towers and buttresses to the northwest. Climb a scree chute toward the col at the west foot of the summit tower, to a ledge system along the base of a vertical wall forming the crest of the ridge between the summit and the first buttress. (It may be reasonable to shorten the long scree traverse by scrambling directly up rubbly ledges to the southeast corner of the peak, where we ended up anyway--approximately the line between sun and shadow in the photo; but we had been led to look for a route up the summit tower from the west or northwest, which turned out to be unpromising.)

Continue along the ledge south-east below the peak, occasionally seeing faint red blotches on the rock. Crouch through an interesting tunnel which penetrates the S.E. ridge to reach a large snow-filled couloir (the "key couloir" in photo) on the other (north) side. (Such holes through ridges are often close to the crest; this one has several meters of rock above it. [photo]wgone_4rr.jpg[caption]Tunnel Through the SE Ridge To the "Key" Couloir[/photo]
  Skirt the snow left about 20 meters to get onto rock, then climb four short pitches on limestone and junky dolomite to the summit.

The first pitch is a juggy grade 5.5 up the couloir to a belay under a big block. [photo]wgone_5rr.jpg...

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